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Kalliste Dress Sewing Pattern – Studio Rosado

 

Sewing instructions:

1. Bust Darts:

Sew the darts on the front panel.

Start from the edge of the fabric and sew towards the dart point along the dart line.
Backstitch on both ends if you have a medium or heavy fabric. For lightweight fabrics leave long tails and tie a knot at the end of your dart.

Press darts downwards.

2. Preparing Pockets:

Pin pocket pieces right sides together with side seams of dress panels matching the markings. Stitch. Neaten the seams. Press pockets to the side.

Take front panel details and understitch the pockets.

3. Facing:

Iron the interfacing on the wrong fabric side of all three facing panels.

Lay the according facing right sides together and pin the shoulder seams. Stitch the facings shoulder seams together. Press open.

Lay the front facing right sides together and pin from the bottom side to the marking. Stitch.
IMPORTANT! End the stitch precisely on the marking level.
Press open.

Neaten the lower edge.

PRO TIP: after neatening the lower edge fold it and sew 2mm apart from the edge. This step is not mandatory but it hides the neatened edge and gives a very clean look.

4. Joining the Facing:

Lay facing’s front right side together with the left dress front panel’s right side. Pin the upper side of facing’s middle seam to the front panel’s middle seam. Stitch. Try to end the stitch as close as possible to the marking notch or end it around 1mm before it.
Repeat it with the other facing’s side and the right dress front panel.

Understitch both front facing middle seams 1-2mm apart from the seam. Don’t understitch under the marking.

5. Middle Front Seam:

Lay front panel right sides together and pin the middle seam. Stitch starting from the upper marking.
If you are sewing the Type B dress with the front slit, stitch until the lower marking. For Type A dress ignore the lower marking.

6. Shoulder Seams:

Lay the front panels’ right sides together with the back panel’s right side. Pin the shoulder seams. Stitch.

Heavy or medium weight fabric: neaten the seam edges separately. Press open.
Lightweight fabrics: neaten the seam edges together. Press towards the back panel.
Lightweight fabrics: neaten the seam edges together. Press towards the back panel.

7. Joining The Facing For Real Now:

Lay facing’s right side together with the dress panels right sides together. Pin the edges around the neckline. Stitch.

Understitch facing to seam allowance around 2mm from the seam.

Medium to heavy weight fabrics: trim the facings’ seam allowance to approximately 3mm.  With this step the seam won’t bulge out when ironed. 

Clip into the curves to release the fabric and create a flat finish when the facing is pressed to the inside. Make more clips where the neckline is curved more.

Flip the facing to the inside of the dress and press around the neckline.
From the facing side leave 1mm of the right side of the dress visible around the neckline. This will make sure that you cannot see any of the facing from the right side of the garment.

Topstitch 7mm apart from the edge.

8. Side seams:

Lay front dress panels right sides with the back panel’s right side. Pin both side seams. Stitch along the outline. Neaten allowances and press towards the front.

9. Set-in Sleeves:

Pin the sleeve seams. Stitch. Neaten seams towards the back.

Using the largest stitch on the sewing machine, stitch two lines between the front and back armhole notches, just inside the seam allowance. Do not backstitch and leave long threads at the ends.
Turn the sleeves to the right side out. With the body of the dress inside out, put the sleeve into the armhole. Match up the back and front notches. Pin the underarm into position and then gently pull the long threads to draw up the ease. Even out the ease between the notches.

Sew the sleeve into place starting at the underarm seam. Sew all the way around, making sure that the shoulder, sleeve and side seams are in the right positions.

Neaten the seam (always neaten both seams together).

10. Try on:

You’re almost finished! :)

Try on the dress to make sure that you are pleased with the dress and sleeve lengths.
If you fancy 3/4 sleeves or you have changed your mind and you want to show your knees, now it’s the time to shorten.

11. Hem & Slit:

Neaten hem allowance. Turn to inside and pin. Stitch the hem. For Type B dress stitch around the slit.
Do the same for the sleeves.

12. Belt:

Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin edges together and stitch, leave an opening for turning. Remember to backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Trim corners at an angle. Turn the belt, press edges. Sew up opening in seam by hand.

Give the final press and you’ve finished!

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