Sewing instructions:
1. Bust Darts:
Sew the darts on the front panel.
Start from the edge of the fabric and sew towards the dart point along the dart line.
Backstitch on both ends if you have a medium or heavy fabric. For lightweight fabrics leave long tails and tie a knot at the end of your dart.
Press darts downwards.
2. Shoulder Seams:
Lay the front panels’ right sides together with the back panel’s right side. Pin the shoulder seams. Stitch.
Neaten. Press towards back.
3. Side Seams:
Lay front dress panels right sides with the back panel’s right side. Pin both side seams. Stitch along the outline. Neaten allowances and press towards the front.
4. Facing:
Iron the interfacing on the wrong fabric side of all three facing panels.
Lay the according facing right sides together and pin the shoulder seams. Stitch the facings shoulder seams together. Press open.
Neaten the lower edge.
PRO TIP: after neatening the lower edge fold it and sew 2mm apart from the edge. This step is not mandatory but it hides the neatened edge and gives a very clean look.
5. Joining The Facing:
Lay facing’s right side together with the dress panels’ right side. Match the shoulder seams. Pin. Stitch.
Understitch facing to seam allowance around 2mm from the seam.
Medium to heavy weight fabrics: trim the facings’ seam allowance to approximately 3mm. With this step the seam won’t bulge out when ironed.
Clip into the curves to release the fabric and create a flat finish when the facing is pressed to the inside. Make more clips where the neckline is curved more.
Flip the facing to the inside of the dress and press around the neckline.
From the facing side leave 1mm of the right side of the dress visible around the neckline.
From the facing side leave 1mm of the right side of the dress visible around the neckline.
This will make sure that you cannot see any of the facing from the right side of the garment.
6. Preparing The Sleeves:
Pin the sleeves’ side seams. Stitch. Neaten seams. Press towards the back.
Pin the sleeve puffs’ side seams. Stitch. Neaten seams. Press towards the back.
Fold 1 cm (3/8 inch) around the bottom edge and press.
Fold again, but 2.3 cm (7/8 inch) around the bottom edge and press.
Pin the folded lower edge. Stitch 2.3 cm (7/8 inch) apart the bottom edge. Leave ~2cm (3/4 inch) open.
Secure a safety pin at the end of the elastic band. Put the elastic band through the casing you made at the bottom edge. Make sure that the opposite end of the elastic doesn’t get pulled into the casing.
Feel along the casing to make sure the elastic is not twisted. Lay the ends of the elastic on top of each other and stitch with a zig-zag stitch.
Stretch the elastic band to pull ends into the casing. Stitch the opening closed, being careful not to stitch on the elastic band.
Gather The Upper Edge:
Set the sewing machine stitch length to 4. Sew a line 4mm apart from the upper edge. Sew another line 3mm apart from the previous line. Leave long tails of threads. Don’t backstitch!
Pull upper threads from both ends and gather the fabric.
Slip the sleeve with the right side out into the puff. (So both right sides are facing each other.)
Pin together sleeves lower edge and puff’s gathered upper edge.
Match the seams. Stitch around. Neaten. Press the seam downwards.
7.Set-in Sleeves:
Using the largest stitch on the sewing machine, stitch two lines between the front and back armhole notches, just inside the seam allowance. Do not backstitch and leave long threads at the ends.
Turn the sleeves to the right side out. With the body of the dress inside out, put the sleeve into the armhole. Match up the back and front notches. Pin the underarm into position and then gently pull the long threads to draw up the ease. Even out the ease between the notches.
Sew the sleeve into place starting at the underarm seam. Sew all the way around, making sure that the shoulder, sleeve and side seams are in the right positions.
Neaten the seam (always neaten both armhole seams together).
8. Secure The Facing:
Secure the facing by making few invisible handstitches. Join the facing’s shoulder seam with the dress shoulder seam.
9. Try on:
You’re almost finished! :)
Try on the dress to make sure that you are pleased with the dress length.
If you have changed your mind and you want to make it shorter, now it’s the time to do it.
If you have changed your mind and you want to make it shorter, now it’s the time to do it.
10. Hem:
Let’s make neat looking corners:
Turn the facing outside - facing’s right side is laying on dress right side.
Turn the facing outside - facing’s right side is laying on dress right side.
Pin the facing’s bottom edge. Stitch 3cm (1 3/16 inch) apart from the edge.
Cut off the excess fabric in the corner to avoid bulk.
Turn the corners inside. Press.
Fold and press rest of the hemline 1cm (3/8 inch) apart from the edge.
Fold again 2cm (3/4 inch). Pin.
Edgestitch (also on top of the corners you just prepared).
11. Belt:
Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin edges together and stitch, leave an opening for turning. Remember to backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Trim corners at an angle. Turn the belt, press edges. Sew up opening in seam by hand.
Give the final press and you’ve finished!
